You can now also view the YouTube video instructions! –

Here we have everything we need!

  • 1 x Macro Casing
  • 1 x Macro Knob
  • 1 x Main PCB
  • 1 x Top Plate
  • 1 x Knob Grub Screw
  • 4 x M2 Countersunk Bolts
  • 4 x M2 Long Top Bolts
  • 1 x Rotary Encoder
  • 4 x M2 4mm standoffs
  • 4 x M2 3mm knurled standoffs
  • 8 x Diodes (1 spare!)
  • 1 x Pro Micro
  • 2 x Pro Micro Headers

Then extra to the kit you will need:

  • Soldering Iron
  • Solder
  • Pliers / Flush Cutters (Flush cutters recommended)
  • 1.5 and 1.3mm Hex Keys
  • 6 x 5/3 Pin Switches
  • 6 x Keycaps
  • 1 x Micro USB Cable

PLEASE NOTE: This PCB does in fact work with an Elite-C, if you are wanting to use an Elite-C do not install the pro micro first as it will become incredibly difficult to remove and you may damage the board. It is not designed to be removed once it is on there.

Place the short end of the header pins through the bottom of the pro micro and solder them in place on the top of the board.

I first snip the black spacer in half to make removal easier.

Gently use the side snips to move the spacer up.

A bit of back and forth and they should just slip off.

Place the Pro Micro (or Elite-C)on the KiwiKeebs PCB. The name of the pins on the Pro micro will match the pins printed on the board. Make sure the Pro Micro is face up, and the PCB is face up and you should be good!

You then can flip the board and Pro Micro over, solder it to the PCB (making sure it is sat flush) and snip off the extra length of pins. PS. Those pins when snipped will fly off with some force, I recommend clipping them face down and into something soft like cardboard to be safe. I did end up with one in my finger xD

Place the rotary encoder in place, if the holes don’t line up gently bend the pins on the encoder but nothing too hard we don’t want to break a leg. Flip the board, apply pressure so the rotary encoder is seated flush with the PCB and solder the pins. You can also bend in the two thicker support legs after soldering the 5 pins if you want to keep the encoder more secure.

Next take your diodes and bend them right at the end of each side at a 90 degree angle.

Place the diode through the board making sure the silver ring faces the same way as on the printing of the PCB as pictured.

Get all 7 installed, solder and snip the excess from the back. You will have a spare left over which was included just in-case you broke one during this step! There are 6 on the switches and one below the rotary encoder to install.

Next take the 4 long M2 screws and the 4 M2 4mm standoffs and attach them to the top plate like so making sure to tighten the standoff so it clamps to the top plate. You can then slot this top plate assembly onto the PCB you have been working on with the pro micro facing up. Attach the M2 3mm knurled standoffs underneath to clamp the boards together. PLEASE NOTE: The 3mm knurled standoffs will only go on one way due to a countersunk recess in one end, if you have trouble attaching one, flip it over and try the other side 🙂

Now make sure your switch pins are straight and carefully pop the switch into the top plate, making sure that the switch legs have come through the bottom of the board for soldering.

You can now pop some solder on those switch pins to attach them to the PCB.

Your soldering is done! Place your board into the casing, hold it at a 45 degree angle, slotting in the USB port first then laying it in flat.

Attach the 4 x M2 (1.3mm Hex) countersunk bolts to attach the PCB to the casing, if a hole doesn’t quite line up, loosen the other bolts to give you a little breathing room and then retighten them all after they are all in.

Pop the grub screw into the knob and push it onto the rotary encoder. Tighten up the grub screw but not overtight just enough.

PLEASE NOTE: The first time this is done it is quite a tight fit to get the knob onto the encoder! It will be hard to pull off so only pop it on at the end 🙂

You’re done! You can now use the encoder with the predefined button pre-sets. You can USE QMK Configurator to change any of the buttons and KiwiKeebs is in the official configurator repository. If you want to change the rotary encoder turning function that will require some custom QMK coding and compiling.